![]() Only applicable in case of a manufacturing defect, must notify within 7 Days.Warranty is not valid for any physical damage.Notify us with in warranty period for any inconsistency.Customer must bear the delivery charges for General warranty claim. will bear the delivery charges for 7 Days replacement warranty/Default warranty. You cannot return a product if you do not like the product quality. Quality of the product depends on the manufacturer. Any delay beyond 7 days will result in no return or replacement.Must inform us immediately after learning the defect.Check the product and match it with the invoice.Any exception will result in no return.Please do not break the seal of your received product & conserve the delivery packaging & invoice.In case the Customer Changes his/her Mind:.On seldom occasions, you may have to return an order. However, there might be some inconsistencies. We are hell-bound to ensure the highest quality & reliability for our customers. is dedicated to enable a unique & delightful purchase experience for its customers. Household Batteries, Chargers & Accessories.Because they use transformers, the usual caveats about transformers still apply. It's just a line-level transformer for each channel, packaged into something that's nice to use. ![]() That's also the idea behind a plug-in ground loop isolator. The ones that I linked to are at the expensive end that, from experience, sound just like the plain wires that they replace across the entire audio range, except for the ground loop noise of course. You can get them cheaper, but the cheap ones add distortion artifacts, especially at lower frequencies as the core saturates easily. Be warned though, that good ones of those tend to be expensive, like the ones that I mentioned here. Beware though, that this is VERY fertile ground for counterfeiters and other dodgy operations, so stick to the more reputable suppliers for this!Īlternatively, you could break the audio signal with some line-level transformers. Just take that power from a dedicated wall-wart and use its safety-required mains-isolation to also provide your ground isolation. If you're only using the USB for power, then that doesn't really help you because it requires a separate supply anyway for the circuit side. (and a separate supply for each side of course) They're stupidly expensive to buy as a completed module with all the relevant connectors and a case, but the chip itself is reasonable and only requires a handful of passives. Here's what Mouser has, and I'm sure everyone else has them too. ![]() If you're using the USB for data, then I think the cheapest way to do it is to put a USB isolator just behind your USB connector. It's not as effective as isolating the supply voltage, though, and you'll need an in-amp with good CMRR. I've done this in the past with an amplifier that I powered from the 12V supply of my computer. If a DC/DC converter that can handle your entire amp's power is too expensive, you can alternatively place a resistor (1k or so, plus maybe an inductor / bead) in the ground line of the audio connection and use an instrumentation amplifier to recover the difference signal between the audio ground connection (at the other side of the resistor) and the audio signal lines. ![]() Depending on the power requirements, this might be a little expensive, however. Your entire circuit is powered from an isolated source then and there can't be any ground loops anymore. Given that your circuit doesn't communicate with the laptop via USB, there's no need for a digital isolator: Just place an isolated 5V DC/DC converter in the 5V power path right after the USB connector. Simulate this circuit – Schematic created using CircuitLab How is this normally done? I'm looking for a simple solution without overflowing the board with too many new components. I have used optocoupler and dc-dc isolators before, but I'm not sure how I should connect them in this context. My question is, how can I implement a ground loop isolator for this application? I understand that a switch for lifting the ground on one side could be enough, but I want to find a solution that doesn't need a manual switch. The ferrite beads I use to separate digital devices from analogue (one side of the board is all analogue, the other digital, the ferrites go in between). The schematics below show how I'm powering the circuit. Otherwise, it works fine (like when transmitting audio from a phone and powering it from a power bank). When receiving USB power and receiving audio from a laptop, there is a ground loop. I'm working on an audio interface that utilises a microcontroller and a CS42448 audio codec. ![]()
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